Culture & Social

Tea In Thailand & Tea In Japan

Tea In Thailand

Considering the Chinese sense of business and the rootedness of tea culture and tea cultivation in the life of the North-Thai hill tribes, this version at least bears a certain degree of historical probability. Hence, we can assume that in the area today forming the border region Northern Thailand/Burma, tea was already harvested from wild growth at a very early stage by hill tribes for their own use.

The tea plant’s targeted cultivation for commercial purposes in Thailand, however, is of much more recent date, and again ethnic Chinese people played a crucial role. But this is a long story that has its beginning in 1949 …

Doi Mae Salong, Thailand

From Burma then, splinter groups of these Chinese Kuomintang soldiers soon migrated further to Thailand and Taiwan, where they formed typical Yunnanese communities. The most important of these communities in Thailand is Doi Mae Salong, a small, picturesque town, situated at an altitude of 1800 m above sea level, amidst the magical scenery of the northern Thai mountains. The area is part of the legendary Golden Triangle, and it can be assumed that the Kuomintang Chinese of Doi Mae Salong contributed to, if not played a essential role in the flourishing opium trade, for which the Golden Triangle has earned its world-wide fame.

Thailand owes its comparatively early withdrawal from opium cultivation in a commercially relevant scale to its royal family, namely its monarch King Bhumibol Adulyadej Rama IX., ruling the country since 1946 and until today. King Bhumipol, for decades a blessing for his country in many ways, recognized at an early stage that it was useless to fight the opium cultivation and trade, those times being a major part of the locals’ economic basis, only with the adoption of dedicated laws and their police and military enforcement. He realized that it wouldn’t be wise to deprive these people of their economic basis without providing them with a replacement.

In this context of replacing opium cultivation with the farming of other, more beneficial and sustainable cash crops, the higher altitudes of the north-west part of Thailand bordering Burma were found to be particularly suitable for the cultivation of tea. On the initiative of the Royal Development Project, experts from Taiwan were consulted to identify the Taiwanse Oolong tea cultivars most appropriate for the cultivation on the slopes of north-west Thailand’s mountains. Then, these cultivars, the Jin Xuan Oolong Nr. 12 and the Ruan Zhi Oolong Nr. 17 were imported and given to local farmers willing to shift to the cultivation of tea. Many of the people living in the ethnic melting pot North Thailand, originating from regions in China and Tibet, looked back on their own tea culture and tradition, this making the initiative falling on very fertile soil.

You will find a detailed account of the Royal Development Project’s work on the Doi Tung and the resulting tea cultivation scene there in our article

Tea cultivation at Doi Mae Salong

Scope and sustainability of the Royal Thai agricultural projects are worldwide exemplary. This way King Bhumibhol contributed to a development that resulted in the income gained from opium cultivation in the mountain enclave being completely replaced by one from the cultivation of tea, and to a lesser extent coffee and some other cash crops within a few years. The community of Doi Mae Salong made a virtue out of necessity. The region now produces more than 200 tons of tea annually, and the quality particularly of the locally grown Oolong teas, but also the Green Teas and more recently a locally produced Black Tea, for which the plants were originally imported from Taiwan, in recent years steadily increase in international reputation for their distinctive, delicate flavor and health benefits.

Doi Mae Salong provides just perfect conditions for tea growing. Altitude and climate, conditions similar to those of the Taiwanese cultivation areas (from where the tea plants had been imported) are optimal for the cultivation of finest Green and Oolong teas. The region also produces tea scented with jasmine flowers, the Chinese “immortality herb” Jiaogulan, as well as Ginseng Tea and other scented teas like Rice Tea or Osmanthus Green Tea.

While 20 years ago Doi Mae Salong was already characterized by its market, which seemed a homogeneous fusion of Yunnanese village idyll and tourist aspiration (snakes and other animals in alcohol along with other obscurities), that market seaming both sides of Doi Mae Salong’s main street is now coined by tea trade. The snakes in alcohol are now banned, instead now even the stalls and shops selling something else than tea at all, will mainly offer tea and everything related to tea, like Chinese and Taiwanese tea sets, tea tables, tea water heaters etc. There’s a range of “tea factories” to be found on the edge of town (larger wooden sheds, on which signs with Chinese characters inscripts tell something I’ll never know what it is) and a small number of classier tourist resorts, well-hidden in order to not affect the townscape.

Doi Mae Salong is definitely worth a visit. More and detailled info in our article

Tea Cultivation Areas in Northern Thailand

Also other areas of northern Thailand disposing of the blessing of an appropriate altitude have been working successfully for some years now to gain a name as tea-growing areas, especially the regions Doi Tung and Doi Chang, mainly initiated and developed by the Royal Thai development project.

Tea In Japan

The history of tea in Japan has its earliest known references in a text written by a Buddhist monk in the 9th century. Tea became a drink of the religious classes in Japan when Japanese priests and envoys sent to China to learn about its culture brought tea to Japan. The first form of tea brought from China was probably brick tea (磚茶 tancha?). Ancient recordings indicate the first batch of tea seeds were brought by a priest named Saicho in 805 and then by another named Kukai in 806. It became a drink of the royal classes when Emperor Saga, the Japanese emperor, encouraged the growth of tea plants. Seeds were imported from China, and cultivation in Japan began.

In 1191, the famous Zen priest Eisai (1141–1215) brought back tea seeds to Kyoto. Some of the seeds given to the priest Myoe Shonin became the basis for Uji tea. The oldest tea specialty book in Japan, Kissa Yōjōki (How to Stay Healthy by Drinking Tea) was written by Eisai. The two-volume book was written in 1211 after his second and last visit to China. The first sentence states, "Tea is the ultimate mental and medical remedy and has the ability to make one's life more full and complete". The preface describes how drinking tea can have a positive effect on the five vital organs, especially the heart. It discusses tea's medicinal qualities, which include easing the effects of alcohol, acting as a stimulant, curing blotchiness, quenching thirst, eliminating indigestion, curing beriberi disease, preventing fatigue, and improving urinary and brain function. Part One also explains the shapes of tea plants, tea flowers and tea leaves and covers how to grow tea plants and process tea leaves. Part Two discusses the specific dosage and method required for individual physical ailments.

Eisai was also instrumental in introducing tea consumption to the warrior class, which rose to political prominence after the Heian Period. Eisai learned that Shogun Minamoto-no-Sanetomo had a habit of drinking too much every night. In 1214, Eisai presented a book he had written to the general, lauding the health benefits of tea drinking. After that, the custom of tea drinking became popular among the warrior (samurai class).

Soon, green tea became a staple among cultured people in Japan—a brew for the gentry and the Buddhist priesthood, alike. Production grew and tea became increasingly accessible, though still a privilege enjoyed mostly by the upper classes.

Roasting process introduced to japan

In the 14th century Ming Dynasty, southern China and Japan enjoyed much cultural exchange. Significant merchandise was traded and the roasting method of processing tea became common in Kyushu, Japan. Since the steaming (9th century) and the roasting (13th century) methods were brought to Japan during two different periods, these teas are completely distinct from each other.

Japan tea Culture emerges

The pastimes made popular in China in the 12th and 13th centuries – reading poetry, writing calligraphy, painting, and discussing philosophy while enjoying tea – eventually became popular in Japan and with samurai society. The modern tea ceremony developed over several centuries. The historical figure considered most influential in its development was Sen Rikyū (1522–1591). In fact, both the beverage and the ceremony surrounding it played a prominent role in feudal diplomacy. Many of the most important negotiations among feudal clan leaders were carried out in the austere and serene setting of the tea ceremony. By the end of the 16th century, the current "Way of Tea" was established. Eventually, green tea became available to the masses, making it the nation's most popular beverage.

Modern Japanese green tea

                In 1740, Soen Nagatani developed Japanese sencha (Japanese: 煎茶), which is an unfermented form of green tea. To prepare sencha, tea leaves are first steam-pressed, then rolled and dried into a loose tea. The dried leaves are brewed with hot water to yield the final drink. Sencha is now one of Japan's mainstay teas.

Rolling machines

At the end of the Meiji period (1868–1912), machine manufacturing of green tea was introduced and began replacing handmade tea. Machines took over the processes of primary drying, tea rolling, secondary drying, final rolling, and steaming.  

Automation

                Automation contributed to improved quality and reduced labour. Sensor and computer controls were introduced to machine automation so unskilled workers can produce superior tea without compromising quality. Certain regions in Japan are known for special types of green tea, as well as for teas of exceptional quality, making the leaves themselves a highly valued commodity. Uji is still famous for its tea. Today, roasted green tea is not as common in Japan and powdered tea is used in ceremonial fashion.